spengler



(No Model.)

B. SPENGLER. EMBBOIDBRING' MACHINE.

Patented Feb. 6,1894.

N VEN TOR ATTORNEYS.

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R. SPENGLERQ EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

No. 514,138. I Patented Feb. 6, 1894.

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m: NATIONAL UTMOGRAPMING COMPANY.

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R. SPENGLER. w v EMB-ROIDERING. MACHINE.

No. 514,138. Patented Feb. 6', 1894.

. UNIT STATES? PATENT OFFICE.

REINHART SPENGLER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO JOHN NADAY AND SIGMUNI) L. FLEISCHER, OF SAME PLACE.

EMBROlDERlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 514,138, datedFebruary 6, 1894.

' 7 Application filed September 13, 1892. Serial No. 445,760. (No model.)

which the following is a specification.

This invention relates toim provements in sewing-machines.

The object of my invention is to provide a sewing-machine which is adapted for producing fancy patterns by means of thread cords,

1 beaded cords, braids or other material applied on fabric by means of lock stitches, and

which machine is so constructed that most intricate patterns can be produced very rapidly and'easily by means of the same.

The invention consists in various constructions and combinations of parts and details, as will be fully described and set forth hereinafter and finally pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side-elevation of my improved sewing-machine, parts being omitted and others being in section. Fig. 2 is an end-elevation of the same, parts-being omitted and others shown in section. Fig. 3 is a plan-view of the under side of the bed-plate of the machine. Fig. 4 is a sectional-view on the line 4 4:, Fig. 1, parts being omitted and others broken out. Fig. 5 is a plan-view of the turn-table. Fig. 6 is a sectional plan-view on the line 6 6, Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is a sectional plan-view on the line 7 7, Fig. 2. Fig. 8 is a sectional plan-view on the line 8 8, Fig. 2. Fig. 9 is a detail sideview of the presser-bars, braid-feeders, parts being broken out and othersin section. 'Fig.

, 10 is a view at right angles toFig. 9,-showing the arrangement of the presser-wheels. Fig.

'11 is a plan-view, partly in section, showing thesw inging key-tubes for the beads. Fig. 12 is a detail-view of the cord and braid feeddevice. Fig. 13 is a side-view of the same. Fig. 14 is a sectional plan-view of the construction shown in Figs. 12 and 13. Fig. 15 is a detail sectional-view of the shuttle and bobbin. Fig. 16 is a plan view of the detachable collar for holding the supports for the swinging cord-guide. 7

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

The bedplate A of the sewing-machine is provided with a circular, opening A below the needle-bar and in said opening the circular plate A is fixed. Below said plate is arranged a cross-bar G having a downwardlyprojecting leg A the lower end of which is secured to a cog-wheel B that is supported on anti-friction rollers B mounted in slots of a supporting-plate O which is suspended by means of rods 0' from the under side ofv the bed-plate, the shape of said supporting-plate being clearly shown in Fig. 3. The cog-wheel B engages a cog-wheel B also arranged upon the supporting-plate O and fixed on avertical shaft 13 guided at its lower endin the supportingplate 0 and at its upper end in an arm A pro jectiug from the under side of the bed plate A, which, shaft B is provided at its upper end with a beveled cog-wheel B engaging a beveled cog-wheel O on one end of a shaft C mounted in suitable hearings on the under side of the bedplate in the direction of the length of said bedplate, which shaft 05 carries at the end opposite the one carrying the cog-wheel C a beveled cog-wheel O engagingthe beveled co wheel 0 mounted on the lower end of a vertical shaft 0 suitably mounted in the vertical part of the arm D of the sewing-machine, said shaft 0 carrying atits upperend a beveled cogwheel C that engages the beveled cog-wheel C on one end of the shaft C mounted within the horizontal part of the arm D and carrying at its opposite end a beveled cog-wheel O that engages a beveled cog -wheel 0 mounted on the upper end of a vertical shaft (Win the free end of the horizontal part of the arm D and projecting down through said arm, which shaft C carries at its lower end a cog-wheel C for a purpose that will be set forth hereinafter.

The horizontal shaft 0 on the under side of the bedplate A is provided with a beveled. cog-wheel O that engages the beveled cogwheel D on the short shaft D arranged on the under side of the bedplate at right angles to the shaft 0 and said shaft D is provided with the beveled cog-wheel D that engages the beveled cog-wheel D mounted on the upper end of the short vertical shaft D supported in the bracket D projecting downward from the under side of the bedplate,

which shaft D is provided at its lower end with the crank-handle D for turning it. By turning said crank-handle D rotary motion is transmitted by means of the shafts D and C and the several beveled cog-wheels to the cog-wheels B and C and from the cog-wheel B it is transmitted to the cog-wheel B, the leg A and the cross-bar G so that the operator by merely turning the crank-handle D in one direction or the other, can readily turn the cross-bar G in one direction or the other.

In the arm D the main-shaftE of the usual construction of sewing-machines is mounted and by means of an eccentric E and connecting-rod E operates the crank E on one end of the rock-shaft E mounted on the under side of the bedplate, which rock-shaft is provided at the end opposite the one having the crank E, with a crank E, which is connected by a connecting-rod E with a rocking-lever E one end of which is pivoted to the lower end of the rod E projecting downward from the bedplate. The swinging end of said lever E is connected by a universal joint with the rod F passing vertically through the supporting-plate O in such a manner that said rod F can reciprocate with the rocking-lever E and can turn in the free end of the same. The cog-wheel B, previously described, is fixed on said rod F so that the rod turns with the cog-wheel. The plate F having an angular cam-groove F is fastened to the rod F and into said eam'groove F a pin F passes from one end of an angle-lever F that is pivoted on a bracket F projecting from the standard or leg A and through which bracket the rod Fpasses, the other arm of said angle-lever F being provided with a segmental slot F in which a pin or screw F is mounted adjustably, which screw or pin F is connected by the connecting rod F with one end of the angle-lever F pivoted to the turn-table A and having its upper end passed into a slot F of a plate F that is mounted to slide on two track-bars F formed on the cross-bar, which slide-plate F is provided with a needle-slot F and with a slight annular depression in which a fiat ring F is mounted loosely, the upper surface of which ring F isserrated, or said ring may be provided with a surface of rubber or sand-paper, or other material producing considerable friction. Said ring passes through an opening a in the plate A Fig. 2.

The several parts just described are clearly shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 5.

On the rod F an angular arm G is fixed which has a horizontal portion and a vertical portion, the horizontal portion passing through a vertical slot G of the leg A and the vertical portion of said arm is provided with arack G that engages a pinion G mounted on the side of the leg A said pinion having an arm G that is connected by a link G with a shuttle-carrier G, which shuttle-carrier is mounted to reciprocate in the groove G7 in the top cross-piece G of the leg A One arm of the shuttle-carrier Gr passes through a longitudinal slot G of said cross-piece, as shown in Figs. land 2. As the rocking-lever I1 rocks up and down, the cog-wheel G is alternately turned in opposite directions, whereby the reciprocating motion of the shuttle-holder G is obtained. At the same time the feeder-plate F is reci procated for the reason that the cam-plate F moves up and down and acting on the pin F of the angle-lever F which is pivoted on a fixed support, rocks said angle-lever and from the same the rocking-motion is transmitted by thebarF to the angle-lever FLwhich in turn acts on the feederplate F The stroke of the feeder-plate can be varied by adjusting the pivot or screw F in the slot F of the angle-lever F The shuttle II is made of the usual shapeandis provided with a hinged top H having the bent spring I'l forlockingitin place. The shuttle contains the bobbin H composed or formed of thread wound in the shape of a cylinder, from the interior of which the thread is unwound, as indicated and shown in Fig. 15. This permits of using the bobbin without rotating the same during use, the thread passing out of one end of the shuttle and passes over a spring-strip H against which it is pressed by a fine spring H so as to give the shuttlethread the desired tension. As both the feeding-plate and the shuttle-carrierare supported on the leg A it is evident that said feedingplate and shuttle-carrier are rotated with the leg, but always operate the same whether they are being rotated or not.

On the end of the arm D of the machine the head J is fastened and to the underside of the same a cog-wheel J is mounted that engages the cog-wheel C previously described, and said cog-wheel J engages the cog-wheel J fixed below the lower end of the head J on the vertical sleeve J mounted in said head, so that when the cog-wheel C is turned by turning the crank-handle D below the bedplate A, rotary motion is transmitted from the cog-wheel C by means of the cog-wheel J and the cog-wheel J 2 to the said sleeve. The sleeve J is provided with a loose collar J mounted between two brackets J projecting from a plate J mounted to slide verticallyin the head J, which plate J G is reciprocated in the usual and well known manner from the driving-shaft E by means of a cam-groove J and a pin J projecting from the pulley J on the end of said shaft E. From said loose collarJ a pin K passesthrough the longitudinal slot J in the sleeve J into the reciprocating needle bar K that passes longitudinally through the sleeve J so that when the collar J is reciprocated vertically, it reciprocates the needlebar without reciprocating the sleeve J and at the same time when said sleeve J is turned on its longitudinal axis, the needle-bar is turned with it.

Above the top of the headJa circular horizontal plate L is fixed to the upper end of the sleeve J 3 and is provided with a vertical standard L on which the block L is held vertitirely. The spool M containing the sewing-' thread I) is mounted on the spool-holder M projecting from the bracket M on the plate L. From said spool the thread b passes over a tension-rod M to a tension-eye M and then passes up over the roller N of a take-up lever N which is pivoted on the bracket of the standard N on the plate L. From the A throw of the take-up lever.

roller N of the take-u p lever the thread passes through the bore of the tubular needle-bar K An angle-lever N is pivoted on the plate L and one end of the same is connected by a connecting-rod N with the take-up lever N the same being adjustable by means of a slot and screw in the usual manner, to vary the The other end of said angle-lever N carries a pin N which passes through the angular slot N of the plate N fixed to the upper end of the reciprocating needle-bar K so that when said needle-bar reciprocates the piece N passes up and down and by the action of its slot on the pin N the angle-lever N is rocked and in turn reciprocates the take-up lever and gives the same sufficient throw to draw the thread b taut.

The pulley J on the end of the shaft E has adouble cam-groove O in which the pin 0 works that projects from one end of an anglelever O pivoted at O to the end of the arm D, and said angle-lever O is connected at its opposite end by a link 0 with the verticallyreciprocating piece 0 guided in the arms of the head J, and to said vertically-reciprocat-' ing piece 0 a ring P is secured, which projects into an annular groove P of a loose collar P surrounding the sleeve J 8 and mounted to move up and down on the same. From said loose collar P an arm P projects down through a longitudinal recess P in the sleeve J 3 and to the lower end of the same a detachable cam-piece P is fastened for a purpose that will be set forth hereinafter. The loose collar P is reciprocated vertically and can turn with the sleeve J 3 and while turning rotates within the ring P, which can only reciprocate and not turn on its axis. The sleeve J 3 is provided a short distance below its lower end and some distance below the cog-wheel J with a fixed collar Q to which two links Q are pivoted, in the lower ends of which a transverse shaft Q is mounted to rock, and on each end of said shaft Q a curved arm Q is fixed, provided near its upper end with a notch Q and on the lower end of each arm Q a disk Q having a serrated edge is mounted to turn. The shaft Q is provided with two helical springs Q each having one end secured to the shaft Q and the opposite-end bearing against one of the arms Q to press the same downward. Between the two links Q a lever R is pivoted, having a handle R at its upper end, and provided at its lower end with a curved arm B on the end of which the crossrod R is held, that can enter the notches Q of the arms Q A latch R adapted to enter the aperture R of a plate R projecting downward from the lower end of a sleeve J is mounted on the transverse pin R of the links Q, and is provided with a projection R on which the lower arm R of the lever B can act, all for the purpose which will be set forth hereinafter.

'As appears in Fig. 9, the upper part of the inner edge of thelever R is curved in the shape of a cam and is to be acted upon by a campin S projecting from the needle-bar K and passing through a vertical slot S of the sleeve K. One, two or more tubes Tpass longitudinally through the recess P on the sleeve J 3 and terminate a short distance below the cogwheel J 2 and serve for conducting the cord, narrow braid or beaded cord from the spools L on the spool-holders. In sleeves T of a detachable collar T on the lower end of the sleeve J 3 vertical shafts U are mounted to turn on theirlongitudinal axis, and each shaft U is provided at its upper end with a laterally projecting arm U on which the campiece P can act and at its lower end is provided with a curved tapering guide-tube'U for the cord. Each rod U is surrounded by a helical spring U one end of which is fastened to said rod Uand the other end to the sleeve T for the purpose of pressingth-earms U against the edges of the cam-piece P As shown in Figs. 9 and 11, only one curved guide-tube U is used. As shown in Figs.12, 13 and 14, two are used in conjunction with a third flattened tube V held on the rod V projecting downward from the collar T which guide-tubeV however is not mounted to rock. The needleWis fastened in the lower end of the needle-bar and adapted to pass into the needle-hole W of the sewing-plate. Adjacent to said needle-bar'an annular presserbar m is mounted movably in the lower end of the needle-bar and is pressed downward by the spring m interposed between theupper end of the presser-bar and the top of the recess for receiving the upper end of the presser-bar. If the cam-piece P is omitted the guide-tube U remains fixed and can be used to feed cord, braid, 850., in a straight line.

The operation is as follows :When theshaft E is rotated, the needle-bar is reciprocated vertically in the usual manner and the shuttle is moved horizontally by means of the devices previously described. In case only the sewing-thread is used, ornamental figures can be produced on the face of the fabric by suitably shifting and turning the fabric. To

form the most intricate designs it would be very difiicnlt to shift the fabric on the sewing-plate. In my improved sewing-machine the cloth-feeder can easilybe shifted by means of the crank-handle D and the mechanism described, and at the same time the needlebar, the sleeve in which the same is guided, and the thread-supports of said sleeve are reciprocated in entire uniformity with the clothfeeder. There is no danger of twisting 01f the needle or twisting the thread, and as the clothfeeder, shuttle-operator and the needle-bar can easily be shifted, any desired or intricate pattern can readily be produced. As the needle-bar descends, the cam-pin S on the same strikes the curved cam-edge of the lever R,Fig. 9, whereby the lower end of said lever R is pressed inward sufficiently to cause the crossrod R to act on the arms Q supporting the serrated wheels W, whereby said wheels are lifted off the fabric, while the needle pierces the fabric, but when the needle-bar rises, the springs Q can press the serrated wheels Q upon the fabric, which wheels in turn press the fabric upon the roughened friction-ring F of the cloth-feeding plate F, Fig. 5, so that when said feeding-plate reciprocates the fabric is shifted, the serrated disks Q rotating slightly as said fabric is shifted. Then at the next downstroke of the needle-bar, the said wheels are again lifted, and so on. As the needle-bar descends, the presser m also presses down the fabric, or in case cords are used, presses said cords firmly against the fabric and holds them in proper position for the needle and also holds them when the needle begins to rise. The latch R normally holds the links Q upon the support for the serrated disks Q in the proper position, but when it is desired to change the needles or adjust the same, said disks must be swung out of the way. This is accomplished by swinging down the lever B which acts on the projection R of the latch R and wlthdraws the same from the aperture R and the plate R, thus permitting of swinging up the links Q and the entire presser-mechanism. In case cords of any desired shape, color or material are to be sewed on the fabric, either one or more, said cords are passed through tubes T and then through corresponding tubes U As shown in Fig. 1, but a single tube U is used, and for that reason the cam-piece P has only one camedge. In case two tubes U are used, as shown in Figs. 12 and 13, the cam-piece P must have two edges and is shaped as a triangle. As said cam-piece reciprocates vertically with the sliding collar P it acts on the arms U of the rods U supporting the tubes U and according to the configuration of the cam-edge, gives the same difierent movements. Fig. 11 shows the tube U having a zigzag motion, thatis, the beaded cord is carried in a zig zag line across the line of the sewing-thread; In Fig. 14 a braid and two cords are sewed on the fabric and in this case the cam is so arranged as to cause the tubes U to lay the cords in a zigzag lineand a short straight portion between each crossing. Said cam is operated, as described, by the lever 0 which reciprocates the ring P and the same reciprocate's the collar P with which the support for the cam is connected. The tubes V and U as also the cams acting on the latter, can readily be interchanged, and the machine thus easily adjusted for producing any desired kind of work. Usually the beaded cord and braid and fancy cords when applied on garments are to produce intricate and complicated figures, and it has been quite diliicnlt and slow work to shift the fabric to produce the desired figures in a satisfactory way and without straining the needle or breaking the thread.

By means of my improved mechanism for shifting the cloth-feeder uniformly with the needle-bar, and the devices that guide the various fancy cords to the needle uniformly, all this can be accomplished in a most simple manner and very rapidly and at a very small expense and the cords or braids are sewed to the fabric by means of a permanent lockstitch.

I am aware that chain stitch embroiderymachines have been made in which the needle-bar is mounted to rotate with the rotating knotting-hook, and do not claim this broadly.

Having thus described my invention, what 'I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A sewing machine, constructed with a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar and axially rotative, a cloth-feeder mounted to reciprocate horizontally, a horizontal bar mounted to rotate on the same axis as the needle and having a straight horizontal guide for a shuttle holder, a horizontally-reciprocating shuttle-holding device in said guide, said reciprocating cloth-feeder, the horizontal shuttle guide bar and the reciprocating shuttle-holding device all being mounted to rotate on the same vertical axis and with the needle-bar, and mechanism below the bed-plate for operating said shuttle-holding device and said reciprocating cloth-feeder, substantially as set forth.

2. A sewing machine, constructed with a needle-bar, and shuttle-operating devices, swinging guide-tubes for cords or braids attached to the needle-bar and mounted to rotate with said needle-bar, a reciprocating cam for operating said swinging guide-tubes and means for reciprocating said earn from the driving-shaft of the machine, substantially as set forth.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination,

with a bedplate, of a rotating-piece below the same, a rotative vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, a leg projecting downward from said piece, cloth-feeding and shuttle-operating devices supported by said leg, a vertically-reciprocating rod guided by said leg, a lever connected by universal joint to the lower end of said rod, and means for rocking said lever from the main driving-shaft of the machine, substantially as set forth.

4. A sewing machine, constructed with the usual arm of a needle-bar at the end'of the same mounted to rotate in the same, which needle-bar is mounted to rotate on,its longi-- tudinal axis, means for reciprocating said needle-bar from the main shaft of the machine, a grooved cam-pulley on said main shaft, a lever actuated from said cam-pulley, a reciprocating cam adjacent to the needle and operated by said lever, and swinging guide-tubes adjacent to the needle, which guide-tubes are actuated by said cam, said cam and swinging guide-tubes being mounted to turn with the rotative needle-bar, substantially as set forth. I

5. Ina sewing-machine, the combination, with a reciprocating needle-bar, of a sleeve for guiding the same, swinging levers below said guide-sleeve, serrated disks on the ends of said levers and means for swinging said levers fromthe reciprocating needle-bar, subwith a reciprocating needle-bar and a sleeve for guiding the same, of links pivoted to said sleeve, swinging levers supported by the links, serrated wheels on-the ends of said swinging levers, a latch for locking the links. in place, and a handle for disengaging said latch, substantially as set forth. 8; In a sewing machine, the comb nation with a reciprocating needle-bar mounted to rotate on itslongitudinal axis, of swinging guidetubes adjacent to the lower end of theneedlebar, arms on supporting shafts of, the said guide-tubes, a reciprocating cam adapted to act on said arms, which swinging guide-tubes, arms on the supporting shafts of the same and cam all turn with the needle-bar, substantially as set forth. 1

9.- In a sewing-machine, the combination, with the rotative piece below the bedplate, of a reciprocating feeder-plate on the same, a ring mounted loosely in the upper face of said feeder-plate and having a roughened, upper surface, a rotating needle-bar, and means for turning said needle-bar and said piece simultaneously in the same direction, substantially as set forth. v

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name inpresence of two subscribing witnesses.

REINHART SPENGLER.

Witnesses:

OSCAR F. GUNZ, CHARLES SCHROEDER. 

